French Girl in Seattle

Food is life. Food is anticipation. Food is pleasure.

Food is memories. Food is nostalgia. Food reminds you where you are from.

When I meet French people in the United States, we may discuss French current events, or our respective American locales of choice; but without fail, at some point in the conversation, food is brought up. "Where do you find Maille/Antésite/Levure Alsa/La Comtesse du Barry, here?""Where do you find a decent baguette?"Code names, exchanged by expatriates who need not explain: They speak the same language.

I have lived in the United States for almost twenty years. I have sampled great food all over the country. Because I manage a blog named French Girl in Seattle, followed by a fast-growing community of francophiles, I have made it a game - no, my mission - to look for French food during my travels. Driven and focused, this French Girl investigates... and scores.

Nothing stands between a Gaul and his boar... uh... food.

In the United States, I have sampled wonderful French products, some imported, some locally made: bread, cheese, charcuterie, salt, pastries, wine, and more. It can be a struggle to locate them locally, but there are online suppliers too. My favorites are the well-stocked d'Artagnan (as a Toulouse native, how could I not patronize a business named after the famous Gascon?;) and the more affordable le Panier Français and frenchybee.com. So if you absolutely need to purchase French food specialties - and are willing to pay at least twice what they cost in France - there are places you can go. Ah, the sweet taste of victory, when you finally get your hands on the prize!

What about cravings? What about instant gratification? Sure, it's a great feeling to open the care packages shipped by your French relatives, but you often wish you had easy access to all these delicious products you used to find around the corner in your French neighborhood. And you think to yourself: "J'ai tellement envie de..." [insert the French product name.] I would so love...

So, without further ado, voilà this French Girl's top 10: The hard-to-find, dearly missed food items that immediately bring her back home, as she savors them with sheer delectation.

1. La Baguette Tradition

Not just any bread; a French icon. Supermarket bread can't compete. Bâtard, flûte, ficelle can't compete either. La baguette de tradition française is the Queen of the French boulangerie. Eat it alone, or with butter. You must eat le quignon (the tip) on the way home. Buy two, just in case.

Fellow expat, actor Olivier Martinez:
His Los Angeles grocery runs always include a baguette!

2. Le beurre demi-sel

Not sweet. Not salted. Just right. This is the butter that will make you forget all other butters. Spread it on toast in the morning; use it to make crêpes. Substitute for all other standard (boring?) butters in recipes.

French butter is really good, folks. Do not take my word for it. Try it! This week, when I posted this photo online with the caption: "Incredible. Albertsonssells this for only $2.99," French Girl in Seattle readers went mad. I stocked up. They stocked up.

A few hours later, the folks at Albertsons were seen scratching their heads in front of empty shelves. They likely checked in with their chi-chi competitors at Whole Foods, who replied: "Are you CRAZY? Don't you know you can charge three times as much for that French stuff?"

3. La graisse de canard (la graisse d'oie.)

Duck (or goose) fat. Sounds bad for you? But you use so little of it. Un peu. A smidge. How bad can that be? Besides, if you have ever sampled a serving of crisp, fragrant pommes de terre sarladaises, you know why you will never sauté dishes with anything else.

4. Les pâtes prêtes à dérouler.

Store-bought doughs. Ready to use. Monoprix makes excellent ones. So do Marie or Herta. You're not a baker? Not to worry. From now on, you will impress your guests with perfect pâte brisée, pâte sablée, or pâte feuilletée. It is that easy.

When I lived in Paris, my girlfriends and I had a favorite dinner: Tarte aux tomates, fromage and herbes de Provence, served with a green salad, and followed by a cheese course, or dessert. Voilà. The most delicious dinner in the world, whipped in a few minutes.

5. Les Rillettes de Canard (duck rillettes.)

It's not pâté. It's not foie gras either. Find a baguette tradition (see above,) a good bottle of wine, and you're in business.

6. Les Yaourts.

You have not eaten yogurt until you have had yogurt in France. Fact. The yogurt aisle in any self-respecting French supermarket is a beautiful sight. The photo below will probably make many French expats sigh. I get it.

7. La faisselle. Le fromage blanc.

It's not crème fraîche, it's not cream cheese. La faisselle and le fromage blanc (whipped faisselle)is fresh cheese, with half the calories and cholesterol of cream cheese.

"Fromage blanc à la louche," served with a ladle at outdoor markets

It makes a tasty dip when mixed with fresh herbs. People cook with it. It was for a long time French women's go-to *healthy* dessert on restaurant menus (maybe it still is?)

Faisselle au coulis de fruits rouges

8. Café Carte Noire.

The top-selling coffee brand in France. A couple of Carte Noire bags often find their way into my suitcase before I leave France. Oh, and the brand has produced some awesome TV commercials over the years!

9. Teisseire mint syrup.

Because Vittel Menthe (mint syrup and mineral water) or its poor parent Menthe à l'eau (mint syrup and tap water,) is such a pretty, refreshing drink. In my childhood, kids were only allowed to drink soda occasionally. We were very grateful for the reliable Menthe à l'eau: It quenched our thirst on hot summer days.

10. La crème de cassis (currant liquor.)

A classic, and the indispensable ingredient to prepare the iconic French apéritif Kir (dry white wine and currant liquor.) My personal favorite, le Kir Royal, is the elegant, pretty drink that whets your appetite and makes your head spin before you order your meal.

There are so many more I could list here. But this is a Top 10. Favorite French (and European) candy could be a Top 10 by itself. I once wrote a story about the candy of my childhood. You can find it here.

You know my selection. What about yours? Whether you are a French expatriate, or someone who still lives in their homeland, what are favorite food products you miss -or would miss - away from home? C'est à vous. Speak up.

A bientôt.

Somewhere in Versailles, France

France was not always my favorite travel destination. First there was Spain, for a couple of weeks every summer. It was a family tradition. I always had fun there, on la Costa Brava, with my parents, my brother and our relatives. When that was over, we spent the rest of the summer with our grand-parents, in Southern France, and at home (wherever home was; we moved every few years.) Then, as a middle school student, I started learning English and became enamored with Great Britain, visiting with my family - Ah, that first ferry crossing on the English Channel, the tall white cliffs of Dover appearing in the distance! - then on school trips, and later as a tour director for a European company, leader in educational travel. Finally, when I started studying the United States during my senior year in high school, I *fell* into American culture, an experience that would take me across the pond, over and over again, until I settled in the Seattle area 19 years ago. So many trips, so many adventures, so many happy memories.

France, I am almost embarrassed to admit, was never at the top of my list. I smiled when I heard that most French people spend their summer vacation in France, often staying with relatives and friends. "Why?" I wondered, looking longingly at the big wide world, waiting to be explored.

Photo credit: Unknown

Fast forward 30, or 40 years. I have led the expatriate life for almost 20 years now. I know I've been lucky to fly back home often. When I arrived in Seattle, I decided that seeing my parents or my brother was a prerequisite, a necessity, an unalienable right. My American-born son would know his French roots; speak French; and be able to function in Europe. For me, at least, there was never any question. And so we flew to France, to Paris, (since they all live in Paris,) with the occasional side trip to Spain, or England, when we could spare a few days. After a few years, a funny thing started to happen. I wanted more. Paris, and the family - the horror! - were not enough. I wanted to see France; go back to those cities where we had lived; explore new areas. And so, during each trip, I started stealing a few precious days away from family time, and traveled around la Belle France; cherished moments when I could be a tourist, looking at my homeland with a renewed sense of wonder, as first time visitors do. How much fun I have had, falling in love with France all over again! Every summer, my American friends travel to exotic locations, or take long trips across the United States. I enjoy listening to their travel stories, but I do not envy them. If you gave me an extra week off, and enough money to cover my airfare today, France is where I would go, in a heartbeat.

Enjoying a French breakfast in Nice last summer

It seems I am not the only one enjoying la Belle France. This summer, the French government announced that with over 84 million foreign visitors in 2013 alone, my homeland, remains, once again, the most visited country in the world, and by a pretty large margin. The international media enthusiastically embraced the story and tried to analyze the reasons for France's enduring popularity. I shared this article with the French Girl in Seattle Facebook community, and many attempted to answer the question: Why is France so popular? Opinions included: "Romance,""Art,""Gastronomy,""History,""Culture." Others gushed about "France's allure," and "the ephemeral feeling of Frenchness," palpable all over the country. Matt Long, the story's author, concluded: "France [Paris] fulfills the promise of Europe, even for Europeans."

Fabulous French food: Le Café gourmand

I agreed with most of these comments. How could I not? So I went back to my favorite photo library, the place where I keep all these snapshots of favorite French experiences. And I came up with The Top Ten Reasons why France is my favorite travel destination.

1. Food, glorious French food.

Yes, it can be that good. I am not a foodie, but there are classics I crave all year, and happily indulge in as soon as I set a foot in my homeland. This won't come as a surprise if you read my last story.

Escargots de Bourgogne... et baguette
(you need bread to soak up the delicious, fragrant sauce.)

Galette bretonne (savory crêpe) Cidre brut de Normandie

Salade périgourdine

2. France is a modern country, where one can get lost in time...

In the land of the T.G.V. (high speed train,) the soaring Millau Viaduct, and credit card chip technology, there is also a healthy respect for tradition. Often, the past re-appears in the blink of an eye.

Gardeners, Versailles gardens Orangerie

Looking at life through the roof of an iconic Deuche (2CV)

A rose named after a beloved author
Jardins de Bagatelle, Paris

3. Hanging out in a Renoir painting (just another day at the office.)

La Maison Fournaise, Presqu'Ile de Chatou
(My office was in one of these buildings across the Seine river.)

Maison Fournaise:
The terrace, as pictured in Renoir's Luncheon of the Boating Party

4. It's all in the presentation

The French love of aesthetics is legendary. Everything in French life has to look/taste/sound just so, including the French language... An enduring (endearing?) quest for excellence, and elegance.

Jardin à la Française: Château de Bagatelle, Paris

Summer lunch, Gorbio, Côte d'Azur

Pâtisserie as art: Fraisier

Window displays in the nation of "lèche vitrine" (window shopping)

5. France: Touristy, and real

Chers Français : How I love observing you as you go about your business; ignoring the crowds and commotion around you.

Vieux Nice (Nice's Old Town)

Menton, le marché

Pétanque, Parc des Buttes Chaumont, Paris

6. Les Français : The people the world loves to emulate, but claims to hate... until they meet them

Argumentative. Critical. Feisty. Soulful.

Educated. Direct. Culture proud. Welcoming.

Don't change too much. You have your priorities right.

Shop window:
"I am close by. Call if you need help."

Spotted in a popular park:
"This area is reserved for strolling.
Joggers are tolerated as long as they don't bother strollers."

Les Congés (summer vacation)
"In the summer, we take off.
We will re-open on Tuesday September 9"

7. Glorious outdoor markets

Every large neighborhood, every town has one. Food looks; smells; and tastes better when purchased at an outdoor French market. Don't buy your picnic supplies anywhere else!

8. The French pace

Taking the time to smell the roses without feeling guilty; ignoring those who criticize you (Les pauvres, they don't understand;) feeling sorry for those who don't know how to slow down (that includes some Parisiens!)

Reading...

Strolling...

Eating; drinking; socializing...

9. French space: Small is beautiful

The French do grandeur like nobody else (Versailles? Loire valley castle anyone?)
They also embrace the small, simple pleasures, and the quiet, reflective moments.

A small room with a [gorgeous] view in Toulouse.
A visit to the local market, a small table, and a picnic...

Lingering at a café terrace and watching the world go by
(for the price of a cup of espresso)

Sipping refreshing, affordable wine.
Realizing how happy you are at that precise moment

10. Things I know I will always find in France...

A chair, a table, and a terrace, even on a small sidewalk.

A warm croissant and a chausson aux pommes wrapped in a small paper bag.

A fragrant baguette, with a delicious quignon I will chew off before I get home.

Wherever I travel - cities, villages, countryside - there will be beauty at every turn.

Baie des Anges, Nice

La Belle France, the world's favorite travel destination for 20 years -- and mine.

A bientôt.

All photos unless otherwise noted by French Girl in Seattle

Do not reprint, use, or Pin without permission.

Thank you.

Like everyone in France keeps reminding me, c'est la rentrée. Summer is all but over. Time to head back to school, to work, to life as we know it. In the care package I received from my parents yesterday, I found an issue of Elle magazine: La Rentrée is also the time of the Fall fashion review. Jackpot.

"Unexpected Rentrée:" Elle France loves mixing cultures, and languages.

France is changing, slowly but surely. That ad in Elle magazine announces two weeks of special sales at several malls around Paris. (Every good francophile knows that les Soldes -sales - are government-regulated in France; they only happen twice a year, and never in the Fall.)

Why don't I share some of my observations? You may find these tips useful when you put together your Fall wardrobe.

First, Travel and Leisure. I bought it because of the cover (see above) and the promise of some scoops about Paris...

There weren't that many scoops, but the article is a good read. I learned where I could find French cuisine classics for example - but was a bit surprised that T&L editors do not know how to spell Boeuf bourguignon (a common mistake in international publications, mostly annoying to French natives.) Repeat after me, kids: Boeuf is male. The adjective that follows is, therefore, masculine. Bourguignon (not bourguignonne.) Voilà. Facile, non?

There was a shout out to several Parisian Star Pâtisseries. Among them, Sébastien Gaudard, in So-Pi (South Pigalle, in case you were wondering...)

I can still taste the éclair au café I picked up chez Monsieur Gaudard this summer and later enjoyed in the peaceful garden of the Musée de la Vie Romantique... Absolute perfection.

(Photo French Girl in Seattle)

Travel and Leisure gave me a wonderful idea for a Christmas gift (unless I decide not to wait and order the book next week.)

But the French Elle magazine was waiting, and I started flipping the pages, grateful to my parents who probably spent the cost of thirty fancy pastries chez Sébastien Gaudard, to ship that monster of an issue to the United States.

Last week, I shared an article about Parisian women with the French Girl in Seattle Facebook community. Hadley Freeman, the author, ticked off by the constant stream of books and articles on the theme "French-women-do-it-better," wrote an entertaining piece and - scoop! - revealed the secret to being a Parisian woman:

1. Move to Paris

2. Speak French

Nicely tried, Hadley. But in my humble opinion, Parisian women wannabes need more insights into the lives of real French women.

Case in point: For years, French women, urban French women in particular - looking at you, les Parisiennes! - have been described as ethereal creatures, always impeccably dressed, who never part with their elegant escarpins (pumps,) even on snow-covered sidewalks. Bien sûr, over the years, the rule has relaxed a bit: Fashion gurus like Inès de la Fressange have shared their love for cute, colorful, more relaxed footwear. Converse-clad women of all ages are a common sight on Parisian sidewalks. Well. Wait until you see what French women are going to wear this fall. Let's just say this news is going to delight suburban moms everywhere. You know how they always tell you white, clunky sneakers are a big "no-no" in Paris (and major French cities?) Well... They still are.

But take heart, you may actually be able to visit France with the sneakers you wear to run errands around the mall. Illustration.

(These photos probably caused Coco Chanel to roll in her grave this month.)

The Chanel sneaker: The most "Pop" shoe of the week, according to Elle
And only 850 Euros

Picture this scene: A horrified Mademoiselle decides to return from the Dead to ask Karl Lagerfeld, her successor, what he has been smoking lately. Karl weasels his way out of his well-deserved punishment and produces the following photo. No fewer than nine designers and brands came up with *new* handbag models clearly inspired by the iconic Chanel 2-55. Enraged, Coco forgives Karl - for now - and focuses instead on suing the whole lot. No one messes with Coco. Not even Karl.

Chanel-inspired hands-free bags

Karl could argue that la maison Chanel is not the only brand featuring sneakers in their Fall collection. He would be right.

Escarpin (I think,) by Dior

You have been warned, Parisian women wannabes. Would you like to know more? Pas de problème. This French Girl did all the research for you.

This Fall, French women will wear a lot of grey. Grey is the color of Parisian skies nine months of the year, so we should get many different shades of that lovely color (pun intended.)

There will be print too, on everything. This outfit was clearly inspired by Angelina Jolie's wedding gown. Did her kids draw these too?

You will need a beautiful handbag. All French women have one (or two, or three.) This season, stay away from the Longchamp Le Pliage nylon bag. Everyone, and I mean everyone, has one in their closet. Instead, discover the new Longchamp Le Pliage Leather Heritage collection. Pourquoi pas? (even Coco might approve.)

Finally, if your budget is limited, you could always invest in this cute t-shirt. It would accessorize très bien with those bright red sneakers you already wear every day. Le Chic à la Française. It says what it is. And nobody will question that you've got it, if it is written on a T-shirt, right?

Fortunately, as Elle magazine reminds us in this informative and colorful issue, it's always a good idea to know your classics... A woman can't go wrong when following trend-setters such as Lauren Bacall, or B.B. (Brigitte Bardot,) who turns 80 this month. Joyeux anniversaire, Brigitte !

And even if France, and French women are changing, it is good to know some myths are alive and well, and still embraced by many: designers, advertising agencies, and the general public. Long live la Mode, (Fashion.) It will keep us all talking.

A bientôt.

All photos unless otherwise noted,

by Travel and Leisure, September 2014,

Elle Magazine Special Mode, August 29, 2014.

Further reading: the French woman

If you really, really want to know what makes a French woman so... French, read this story I wrote last year. Let me know what you think!

It's all Rick Steves' fault. Or should I say: It all happened thanks to Rick Steves?

On Saturday morning, I headed to Edmonds, WA, where I had reservations for a two-hour talk by Rick. Edmonds is his hometown, and the world headquarters of fast growing Rick Steves Europe. Rick has always lived and worked there. That's something incroyable for someone like me; who lived all over France with my family before I finally emigrated to the United States twenty years ago.

Rick, of course, spends a good part of the year traveling. So, who could refuse a free, two-hour presentation (complete with a slide show,) where he shares his latest European travels? I - and the many people crammed in the old Edmonds theater, most of them "Rickniks" - were not disappointed. The two hours turned into almost three as Rick took us through Portugal, Spain, Italy, France, the UK, Switzerland, Germany, Eastern Europe, and more. It was almost like being there.

One thing led to another, and by the time I left early afternoon, Rick's many photos of glorious European food specialties, restaurants and outdoor street markets, had made me ravenous. I headed home, and almost immediately, spotted a fancy supermarket on the side of the road. I decided that, in order to keep with the European theme, I was going to have a special celebration that evening. I left the store with a big paper bag full of goodies. My wallet, of course, felt a lot lighter. Have you noticed how expensive European - and French - food specialties are, in the United States? I decided I would have a special dinner, the same one I enjoyed with my girlfriends while working in Paris. That dinner, bien sûr, involved cheese and wine. Why waste time with superfluous stuff? Just go to the essentials!

It's no secret the French love their fromage. Cheese is an integral part of French life; the French culture; and even the French language.

President Charles de Gaulle famously expressed his frustration with the French by declaring:

"Comment voulez-vous gouverner un pays qui a 246 variétés de fromage?"

(How can you govern a country with 246 varieties of cheese?"

Credit: Unknown

Le Général had a point.

In daily life, when confronted with someone prone to exaggeration, and who has a tendency to make things sound worse than they are, a Frenchman might say:

"Pas la peine d'en faire tout un fromage!"

("No need to make cheese out of butter!" - a time-consuming process)

Credit: Unknown

Another Frenchman might confide that he managed to convince someone to agree with him "entre la poire et le fromage;"(between pear and cheese,) referring to the relaxing time at the end of the French meal, when the cheese course is served and a pause is made before enjoying dessert.

Credit: Moya

It turned out I had pear, and fromage for my celebration, and even an unexpected dessert. The only thing I could not find was my beloved baguette. Call me a French snob, but I'd rather do without bread than bite into that bland, colorless, chewy, baguette ersatz sold in many American supermarkets and even some local *French* bakeries. I figured if Parisians could survive four years of German Occupation without basic necessities, I can survive a few dinners without baguette. When in Rome... expats show flexibility.

The fun part was unpacking les victuailles (the good stuff.) Then, I picked my accessories carefully. Presentation matters. I give you, les amis, the recipe for a delicious and utterly enjoyable French cheese dinner...

First, one needs a beautiful plateau à fromage, cheeseboard, or cheese tray.

Let's not forget cheese knives, les couteaux à fromage, ideally one for les pâtes dures (hard cheese,) and one for les pâtes molles, (soft cheese.)

Then, some pretty cheese plates, les assiettes à fromage. Mine were a gift from my mother-in-law. They were made in Paris many years ago, and the brand is Porcelaine d'Auteuil. French China at its finest.

We need un bon vin. Sorry to disappoint you, but this French Girl doesn't know much about wine. I do, however, know French wines I really like. Le Cahors is one of them.

My cheese selection for the petite party? Voilà, complete with cheese markers (I found them in Napa Valley, CA during my birthday celebration last spring and have been dying to use them...)

A nice mixture of pâtes dures, pâtes molles, and pâtes persillées. Du Roquefort, of course, which I had to prepare the way my grandfather always did, a process involving salted French butter (Thank you, Albertson's for selling the excellent Beurre Président at such an affordable price!)

Ready for the Roquefort-A-la-Georges-Cauquil-Senior? Here it is:

Prepare equal parts of softened butter and Roquefort cheese, like so...

Combine cheese and butter to make a paste. Spread on baguette, or if stranded in [American] suburbia, on crackers. Enjoy!

Miam. Salted butter and cheese: How bad can that be?

What about dessert, some of you might ask? Well, it turns out I received one of my beloved care packages from France yesterday (I have wonderful parents!) I decided les fraises Tagada might have clashed with Monsieur Roquefort and his friends. Les Rocher Suchard, on the other hand, were the perfect match!

My friends will forgive me. I did not call them to share this feast. They know there will be other opportunities to enjoy a Dîner vin-fromage chez moi... Bon appétit, French Girl in Seattle !

A bientôt.

Thank you to Rick Steves,

for sharing so much information and knowledge with such enthusiasm;

for inspiring so many great trips and dreams;

You have been my favorite link to Europe for almost twenty years.

All photos by French Girl in Seattle, unless otherwise noted.

Please do not use, reprint, or Pin without permission

Seattle Body Art
(pinterest.com)

The Emerald City vs. the City of Light. They have a lot of things in common these two, and not always good ones. Under *areas for improvement,* I could list their notoriously unpredictable, and depressing weather; traffic; parking; or the cost of living (as anyone trying to invest in real estate in King County, WA, or in downtown Paris can attest.)

A lot is said, and written about Paris every day, in the social media, or in the press. Seattle may be a popular city, but many don't know much about it outside of the United States. Because I have lived and worked in Paris and Seattle for a long time, I thought it'd be fun to compare them (as much as one can compare cities with populations of 2.2 million and 650,000+)

The results are in: Seattle wins. Here are 10 reasons why Seattle is better than Paris.

#1: Seattle is a natural beauty.

Paris may have world-renowned architecture, gardens, and urban landscape, it can't rival Seattle's outdoor life and majestic scenery. Everywhere you look, there are mountains, and water. From Mount Rainier (an ancient volcano,) to the Cascades or the Olympic mountain ranges; from the Puget Sound (an inlet of the Pacific Ocean,) to fresh water lakes, Lake Union, or Lake Washington, Seattle is the tree-hugger and outdoorsy type's paradise. Montmartre is a hill, not a mountain, and can you reach the slopes from Paris in less than 45 minutes? Mais non.

Mount Rainier, the beloved local peak
(www.snowbrains.com)

The Puget Sound

# 2 Commuting is a lot more pleasant in Seattle than in Paris

Seattle:

Paris:

# 3: Seattle watches better

Parisians, people-watching is not a sport! In Seattle, watching sports has been elevated to an art form. From kid sports (a major weekend activity,) to college or professional teams, Seahawks, Mariners or Sounders; on TV or at the local state-of-the art stadiums, Seattleites' favorite pastime is watching sports.

Seahawks fans have a name "The 12th Man"
(www.mynorthwest.com)

# 4: Had Hemingway known about Seattle's coffee culture, he would have never emigrated to Paris' Left Bank

This is the land of Starbucks. Need I say more? Here, coffee making takes time, creativity and craft. Baristas are smarter than software engineers. They have to, to understand local customers' challenging orders. "Can I get a 3-shot, non-caffeinated, half and half, non-fat, small moka latte, without the chocolate... but put some whip on top?" -- After such an order, you hope most people remember to say "please."

The original Starbucks store at Pike Place Market

The perfect café Latte (a local favorite)
(www.ineedcoffee.com)

# 5: Forget macarons, pains au chocolat and tarte Tatin: Seattle does sweets better!

Molly Moon's all organic, all local, all "green" ice cream has longer lines than the Ile St Louis'Berthillon. That's proof, right?

(www.seattletimes.com)

Forget fancy French pastries when you visit the Puyallup Fair - don't bother pronouncing it, just follow your GPS there - and sample a Funnel cake!

Yum. No doggie bag necessary, I am sure!

# 6: Seattle rules at salmon breeding/protecting/catching/cooking

Ever tried fishing in the Seine river? All you will catch is an old Louboutin shoe, the occasional [ugly tourist] corpse, and millions of silly little keys left behind by visitors after they hooked their love locks to Parisian bridges.

Well... In Seattle, you catch the most fabulous salmon. King Salmon, Sockeye, Coho, the list never ends. Salmon is on every menu in the Emerald City (except in coffee shops, because they have figured out that salmon lattes do not taste as good as pumpkin lattes.) Seattleites love salmon so much they built a fish ladder where local kids and their parents can watch the brave fish struggling against the current on their way in and out of town.

Budding environmentalists wishing salmon "Bon Voyage" at the Fish Ladder

Flying salmon (it does exist, in Seattle) is a big attraction at Pike Place Market!

#7: Forget Paris-Plages. Seattle has a real sand beach!

The first settlers landed in West Seattle, on Alki Beach. The rumour has it it was pouring down that day. Not to worry. They were a tough bunch. Today, only locals, tourists, and pirates, visit the beach. If only the Puget Sound was not so darn cold, we could almost swim there!

Alki Beach
(www.seattletravel.com)

Pirates landing on Alki Beach during SeaFair. Arrrgghhh!
(www.westseattleherald.com)

#8: Parisians are too uptight. Seattleites are more relaxed.

It is not known who introduced flannel to Seattle. Doomed artist Kurt Cobain? Vampire covens tucked away on the Olympic Peninsula? No matter. Seattleites fight the constant dampness with fleece, and weatherproof clothing brands such as The North Face or Columbia. Forget Paris'les Galeries Lafayette or le Bon Marché! Locals shop at R.E.I., major purveyor of everything Northwest.

REI: Temple of Northwest Style
(www.urbanomnibus.net)

#9: Paris dwells too much on the past. Seattle looks ahead.

Old Bridges. Gallo-Roman ruins. Time to dust things off, Paris: Urban planning in Seattle includes flexibility, and a willingness to move with the times. Out with the old, in with the new! Heck, after a devastating fire in the 19th century, the original city of Seattle had to be raised up by a couple of floors once it was discovered the city had been built on tidelands, and toilets often backed up at high tide! Not to worry. As explained in the fascinating Seattle Underground tour, the whole city was rebuilt, and elevated. It's amazing to visit Seattle's underground passageways today and realize those old tunnels, and windows, were once at street level!

Seattle's Underground Tour: A must-see local attraction
(www.examiner.com)

Today, the urban-planning tradition à la Seattle endures. People are getting tired of this eye-sore known as the Alaskan Viaduct? Let's tear it down and reclaim Seattle's waterfront. The 520 bridge is unsafe? Let's raise funds and build a new bridge.

Seattle's answer to Paris' la Tour Montparnasse: The Alaskan viaduct

The soon-to-be replaced 520 Evergreen Bridge
(Would you look at the gorgeous weather?)
(www.plg-plic.com)

#10: Seattleites are quirkier

They are a liberal bunch. They are pretty accepting of other people's quirky ways (unless said other people are conservatives.) They will do anything to save the planet. They are strangely attached to a bunch of interesting characters and places...

Paris thinks Love Locks are a problem:

(www.huffingtonpost.com)

Paris is lucky not to have to deal with Seattle's Gum Wall:

(www.agnb.com)

Somewhere in Seattle, there is giant troll, tucked away under a bridge. He is friendly and often poses for photos. (I personally believe he is just hiding from the rain, and like most Seattleites, hates using an umbrella.)

(www.rainycityguide.com)

In the same neighborhood, one can see a giant space rocket that points at the sky but never really goes anywhere. And a giant statue of Lenin, that is allegedly for sale, but nobody except Bill Gates could afford it, and besides, everyone has too much fun hanging out with old Vladimir Ilyich Ulyanov.

Lenin and his friends
(www.miscmedia.dreamhosters.com)

Well, in case you are not convinced yet that Seattle is better than Paris, consider this: Paris has the Eiffel Tower, but Seattle has the Space Needle. Even if they were both built to celebrate World Fairs, Elvis Presley only visited one of them and even shot a movie there.

That's Elvis, and the Space Needle!

In fact, some say Elvis has never left the building.

A bientôt.

Photo credits:

Wikipedia Commons, unless otherwise noted

-- French Girl in Seattle

Café de la Paix, Paris

"To be irreplaceable, one must always be different."

Coco Chanel

1. Mille...what? (Keep them talking.)

Movie stars know the trick. Even if you don't have a strong screen presence, adopt an exotic, even an unpronounceable name. It will get them talking, if nothing else. Millefeuille is one of the prettiest words in the French language, along with libellule (dragonfly,) coccinelle (ladybug,) coquelicot (poppy,) or pamplemousse (grapefruit.)

Millefeuille is pronounced ['Meel-fuh-y-uh] or, if you are American, [Napoleon.]

Mille = One thousand.

Feuille (noun, f.) = A leaf. A sheet of paper.

Millefeuille = One thousand leaves. One thousand layers.

Once, in New York City, a French bakerynamed Millefeuille
sold me... a Millefeuille

... which I enjoyed with a beautiful view.

2. The Millefeuille origins are shrouded in mystery (Keep them guessing.)

Its origins can be traced back to the 17th century (when it was mentioned for the first time in a French cookbook,) but who invented it? Mystère...

An American suburban version, nicknamed "Napoleon"
(trying to look taller, like its namesake, with three layers of crème anglaise!)

3. Le Millefeuille is more elegant than a Parisienne...

Monochromatic colors, simple, yet so effective: Dessert as haute couture. Delicate texture, with the juxtaposition of three layers of crisp, buttery pâte feuilletée (puff pastry,) and two layers of vanilla-flavored crème pâtissière. The eye-catching white icing top, with its etched design, for a perfect marbled or "combed" effect.

4. Imité, jamais égalé.

Imitated, but never duplicated.

Different varieties of Millefeuilles can be sampled all over the world. In France, renowned chefs love to put a new twist on the traditional pastry; even offering savory versions, with tomatoes, salmon, or Brie and apples. I have found my favorite Millefeuilles in unassuming French pâtisseries. I don't mind sampling new versions, but I have one rule: Whipped cream - or jam - is never an acceptable substitute for the crème anglaise filling!

Creative icing work chez Benoît, New York City

5. Le Millefeuille commands love and respect.

Le Millefeuille is a delicacy, a moment of pure happiness and indulgence, and it should be approached as such.

Slice a Millefeuille like a traditional pastry, and you will soon be dealing with a gooey mess, crème pâtissière running away; puff pastry collapsing into a myriad of unsightly crumbs. Instead, use a serrated knife. Go from front to back, without pushing down on the crust, in one, swift motion. Like so:

I am fortunate to know a lady who makes the best French pâtisseries and viennoiseries in Seattle (no local croissant can touch Nora's, in my humble opinion.) I introduced her to my readers a while back. Remember that story? Nora recently moved Inès Pâtisserie to a new location, in the lively and eclectic Capitol Hill neighborhood. I was curious to check it out.

Inès Pâtisserie: Viennoiseries in full display!

This week, I called Nora and asked if she could make a Millefeuille for me to pick up on Sunday. It's not on the regular menu, you see. "Je ferai ça pour toi avec plaisir," she replied ("I will be happy to do that for you.") And so I went, and picked up my treasured Millefeuille - and a few other goodies too, since I was meeting French friends for coffee that afternoon. The verdict: Absolutely délicieux. Nora put her own spin on the original recipe, adding a bottom layer of raspberries, a touch of rum in the crème anglaise, and substituting a caramelized top for the traditional white fondant. Délicieux, indeed. Merci, Nora !

My giant Millefeuille (4 in. x 15 in.:)
I made two stops on the way home and shared it with friends!

If you live in the Seattle area, you can find Nora here:

Inès Pâtisserie
1150 11th avenue
Seattle, WA
206.992.5186
Wednesday-Friday 8:00am-4:00pm
Saturday-Sunday 9:00am - 4:00pm

All photos by French Girl in Seattle

Do not use, reprint or Pin without permission.

Bienvenue at the Hollywood School House Bistro, Woodinville, WA.

Why the name?

It sits across from a local historic building, once the town's schoolhouse.

Built in 1912, the venerable brick building hosts wine tasting rooms and private events.

Reminders of the town's pastoral past surround the Schoolhouse...

A few feet away, the Bistro beckons, with a generous outdoor sitting area,

recently equipped with welcoming fire pits...

My friends and I have enjoyed good times there, in the sun, this summer...

Fall is here, and the evenings have gotten chillier.

The dining room is inviting at nightfall...

Bistro, (def.): A small, modest, European-style restaurant.
Service is attentive, friendly and relaxed.

Callie and Spencer fit the bill...

Food is unpretentious, yet delicious, largely inspired by home-style cooking.
A few days ago, the 3-course meal (Prix fixe, just like in Europe!) included:
melt-in-the-mouth short ribs, creamy mashed potatoes and haricots verts.
Un régal !
This week, Chef Frank has prepared a fabulous special:
Lapin à la moutarde
(traveling anonymously in these parts as "braised rabbit,"
but this French Girl knows better.)

As an entrée (starter,) Chef Frank offered me a sampling of fresh escargots
served in the shell, in the traditional herb butter sauce.
A crisp, green salad ensured I would not feel too guilty
while indulging my colimaçon [snail] craving.

But la pièce de résistance was the rabbit, and it did not disappoint.
The rich, creamy mustard-based sauce, tangy without overpowering the dish,
was the perfect complement to the tender rabbit.

Another winner at the Bistro!

In a town well-known for its wine-tasting rooms (with limited food options,)
restaurants range from family-style eateries serving ho-hum suburban fare;
to chichi and often overpriced establishments.
Many have on thing in common: They'd better work at turning down the noise!

The young Bistro at the Hollywood SchoolHouse stands out as a unique place.
From finger foods (a local favorite,) to hamburgers and salads, to more complex dishes;
it shows versatility and craft, and offers fresh, delicious food,
at affordable prices;
served with a smile in a relaxed atmosphere.

Good luck to you, les amis!

Chef Frank and Sous-Chef Kyle

Where?

The Bistro at the Hollywood School House
14810 NE 145th street
Woodinville, WA 98072
Tel. (425) 892-2575

When?

Tuesday 12:00-5:00pm
Wednesday-Saturday 12:00-8:00pm
Sunday: 11:00-5:00pm

http://hollywoodschoolhousebistro.com/

French Girl's favorites:

The Spanish skillet (served on Sundays)
Croque-monsieur with tomato soup
Les frites!
Any of the desserts (That includes the homemade chocolate macaroons.)

A bientôt !

All photos by French Girl in Seattle.

Do not use, reprint or Pin without permission.

Thank you.

(Photo: flickr.com)

During the travel preparation workshops I instruct in the Seattle area, people often ask: "When is the best time to go to Paris?" My answer: "Go anytime. There is always something happening in Paris."

How true. Paris is never boring. October is typically a busy month, with a plethora of trade shows, many open to the general public, (Paris Motor Show, Chocolate Trade Fair) and cultural events (Montmartre Harvest Celebration, Autumn Festival, to name just a few.) You can find all of these listed on the excellent website of the Paris Tourist Office. But this week, I heard of 5 very untraditional events, and they caught my attention.

1. Burger King is opening its French flagship restaurant in the 14th arrondissement.

I have already discussed the Parisians' fascination for hamburgers, food trucks, and every trend under the sun that is dubbed "C'est très Brooklyn" (just like in Brooklyn.) There is big money to be made out of Parisian Bobos (Bourgeois-Bohêmes,) local hipsters, Brooklynites wannabes, and some international visitors.

Burger King, the fast-food giant, recently returned to the French market. Every day, long lines of worshippers wait outside the restaurant located inside the St-Lazare train station, inaugurated last Christmas with much fanfare. Granted many Parisian restaurants offer real hamburgers, but not everyone is willing to spend 15 Euros ($20) on a burger.

(Photo: Metronews.fr)

And so, this weekend, Burger King is opening its largest, most-modern restaurant near Métro Alésia, on the Left Bank. It is interesting the American fast-food giant chose a location named after a major military defeat that marked the end of Gallic resistance against Julius Caesar in 52 BC. Vercingetorixwould roll in his grave!

An iconic Morris Column tries to ignore its loud neighbor
(Photo: paris14.fr)

2. Is lingering at your table a thing of the past in some Parisian eateries?

This week, a debate erupted online between the owner of HolyBelly, a "branché" (trendy) restaurant (trendy restaurants in Paris often have creative anglo-saxon names with menus peppered with anglo-saxon expressions,) and one of their customers. Even if HolyBelly usually gets rave reviews for its fresh, organic food, and coffee (provided by the popular Belleville Brûlerie,) visitors have complained about limited seating space, no-reservation policy (resulting in long lines, especially on weekends,) and steep prices.

Inside the Belly...
(Photo: Kinfolk.com)

And so this week, a customer sent an email to HolyBelly's management to share her experience: The food was great, but she and her friend did not appreciate being rushed by their waiter (after sitting at their table for barely an hour,) when they ordered two more drinks after a full breakfast. At that point, the waiter brought the check and suggested they take their hot teas "to-go," since there was a long line outside, and the restaurant needed their table. Do you see where I am going with this?

The restaurant co-owner, a well-traveled Frenchman, later decided to publish the customer's email on HolyBelly's website, and wrote what felt like a drawn-out reply. You have to read it yourself, as well as the comments left by Internet users. People quickly took sides: Some spoke in favor of the friendly, entrepreneurial, owner, Nico, and his vision for his business; others sided with the disappointed customer, who only wanted what most of us expect (and get) in Paris: A chance to linger at the table, enjoying good food, a good drink, and good conversation.

Outside the Belly...

This incident is worth mentioning here, since rushed service seems to be a growing trend in packed, new Parisian eateries, where seating is often limited and outdoor space non-existent. I, for one, love French restaurants and cafés for their slow pace, with minimal interruptions by the waiter. And the check should only show up on the table when I ask for it, at the end of the meal. I mean, if I want overly friendly yet rushed service, I can only go to the Original Pancake House or Red Robin, d'accord?

What about you?

3. Another D.A.B. just opened in downtown Paris.

Quoi?

D.A.B. = Distributeur Automatique de Baguettes. A machine that sells - brace yourself - fresh baguettes. It is called Pani Vending, and the award-winning inventor, Jean-Louis Hecht, a baker, is getting a lot of press. The machine has even been adopted by fellow bakers who use it to supplement their daily production!

Monsieur Hecht and Pani Vending

Apparently, Pani Vending makes excellent bread. Baguettes are partially pre-cooked, and when customers insert 1 Euro in the machine, baking is completed in a few minutes. Out comes a fresh, fragrant, crispy baguette... around the clock. Perfect for late-night cravings.

If you are staying in Paris' 15th arrondissement, look up the new Pani Vending, rue Paul Barruel. Bizarre? It seems French baguettes inspire creativity...

(Photo: Thetrendygirl.net)

4. A short-lived event took place in Paris this week.

Paris has always welcomed - and inspired - artists, and over her 2,000 years of existence, the French capital has seen it all, or so we thought. Parisians have often rebelled against art work or new landmarks they did not appreciate. The Eiffel Tower itself was so controversial and enraged so many, it was supposed to be dismantled after the 1889 World Fair. This week, an American artist, Paul McCarthy, got more publicity than he had bargained for when displaying his latest creation in the middle of the venerable Place Vendôme as a guest of the Paris Art Fair. I am guessing Mr. McCarthy does not mind publicity, good or bad, and he is a lot more famous today than he was 72 hours ago, thanks to a 70-foot high, green inflatable structure he named his "[Chrismas] Tree."

McCarthy's Christmas Tree
(Photo: www.Independent.co.uk)

Within hours of the installation, a crazy rumor started spreading around Paris, Twitter, and then the rest of the world: A controversial American artist had set up a giant ~~Christmas Tree~~ butt plug in the middle of Paris. Even worse: Said artist had openly acknowledged that his art piece was rooted in a joke about a sex toy, even if it was inspired by a Christmas tree. Most passersby looked puzzled at best, or plain horrified as the giant *tree* was unveiled on Thursday. A Parisian man was so upset he slapped the artist before running away! On Twitter, a French conservative group declared: "Place Vendôme disfigured. Paris humiliated." The news was quickly relayed by the international press, and their readers had a field day taking cheap, but often humorous shots at "prudish" Parisians. Things took a turn for the worse when vandals took things in their own hands on Friday evening; cut the *Tree* straps and power supply. By Friday morning, the *Tree* looked like this...

The toppled *Tree*
(Photo: www.France24.com)

On Saturday afternoon, the *Tree* was taken away, never to return to la Place Vendôme. Since then, French authorities have extended their deepest apologies and their full support to a [visibly shaken] McCarthy. The new Paris mayor, Anne Hidalgo, made an impassioned plea for "artistic freedom."

Fact: Many Parisians - who had previously condemned the *Tree* - now condemn the act of vandalism, as they should. Give them a few more days, and they will say they miss the *Tree.* If Mr. McCarthy plays his cards well, the mayor of Paris will soon beg him to set up another *Tree* by the Eiffel Tower, the most protected Parisian landmark.

Fact: Even if French conservative groups are widely blamed for this, no one has officially claimed responsibility. For all we know, the *Tree* could have been toppled by a group of inebriated students who got pissed because the neighboring Hemingway bar has been closed for over two years during the Ritz Hotel renovation.

Fact: Many Parisians are now breathing a huge sigh of relief. Nobody wants to see a Christmas tree (real or imagined) on the way to work as early as October. Without the pompous green eyesore, la Place Vendôme is back to its former glory (well, not quite, since the Ritz Hotel is still a mess; and the Vendôme Column, once erected by Napoleon, is wrapped in [not so] creative scaffolding, as illustrated in the photo above.)

As for Mr McCarthy, (many English internet users hilariously kept referring to him as "Sir Paul," thinking the *Tree* was the work of ex-Beatle Paul McCartney!) he will get over his Parisian episode, and will let his creative juices flow somewhere else...

A McCarthy classic: "The Complex Pile" - Hong Kong, 2013

Parisians have strong opinions and volatile tempers. Mc Carthy should be grateful they did not take him to the Bastille (main reason: Parisians once got mad and destroyed the Bastille, and we all know how that ended.) Overall, looking at the bright side, he fared better than Robespierre, who, not unlike Mr McCarthy, always provoked strong feelings among his contemporaries. It seems Parisian prudes have gotten softer lately.

Robespierre meets his fate in 1793

Ending on a cheerful note...

5. This year, you can celebrate Halloween at the best amusement park in Paris.

Why go to Disneyland? Don't you fear déjà-vu?

Cinderella Castle, Mickey Mouse, giant pumpkings... Same old, same old.

Instead, head north to the Parc Asterix for the special, "Peur sur le Parc" (Fear at the park) event. I happen to know fierce Gauls like Asterix and Obelix fear only one thing: That the sky may fall upon their heads. I am curious to see what they have prepared for visitors. I am guessing it won't be pretty. But as long as you stay away from Christmas *trees,* you should be fine.

A bientôt !

Crazy Gauls!
(credit: Uderzo)

mylittleparis.com

This week, a funny list has been making the rounds online, and as luck would have it, it was in French. Dommage.

I wanted my readers to be able to enjoy it too, so I have prepared a free translation. You're welcome!

The article is titled: "23 Things that Scare Parisians." Do not miss the original story, here: The illustrations are excellent.

Several remarks come to mind when I look at the list.

Things have not changed that much in Paris since I left, in 1996.

Le Parisien, (the Parisian,) is defined as a person living in "Paris intra-muros," i.e. in downtown Paris, within the border created by le périphérique, (the beltway.) You may live right outside le périphérique. If you do, you are not a true Parisian. You have become un banlieusard, (a commuter, living in suburbia,) and that, to a true Parisian, is only slightly better, than being un provincial (someone living outside the French capital.)

Paris Intra-Muros (in dark blue on the map,) includes
two parks: Le Bois de Boulogne, and le Bois de Vincennes

A large part of Parisian life revolves around the [excellent] public transportation system and le Métro (the subway.)

... but les Abbesses métro station is nowhere near le Châtelet stop!
MylittleParis.com

Are you ready? Here is my best attempt at a translation...

23 Things that Scare Parisians

(In Paris, you risk your life every day)

French article with h.i.l.a.r.i.o.u.s. illustrations

here.

1. Falling down the Metro stairs and dying.

2. Cell phone theft.

3. A strike in the Paris transportation system.

4. Having to act as a tour guide for tourist friends and splitting your day between the Eiffel Tower and Mona Lisa.

5. Getting stuck in a street demonstration.

6. La Bastille square, after a street demonstration (Ed.: Most mass demonstrations end up there, a lively yet horrendous sight.)

7. Les Grands Boulevards, on a Saturday before Christmas, or during the bi-annual sale season (Ed.: Major Parisian department stores are located near les Grands Boulevards, in the Opéra Garnier neighborhood.)

8. La rue de Lappe, every evening (Ed.: A small, cobbled street in la Bastille neighborhood,well-known for its nightlife.)

9. Getting stuck in the subway between two stops for over two minutes with no explanation, and imagining your own painful and inevitable demise.

10. Walking alone at night in a deserted subway corridor... and disappearing.

11. To be reduced to using one of these one day (Ed.: Photo of a Sanisette, a self-contained, self-cleaning, unisex public toilet in a Paris street.)

12. Transferring from les Halles métro station to le Châtelet RER stop (Ed.: A logistical nightmare, as these are two of Paris' busiest stations, with mile-long corridors.)

13. Having the irrepressible urge to use the bathroom while being in the subway.

14. Pigeons inside train stations.

15. Actually, any contact with a pigeon.

16. Having to go to a party on the other bank.

17. Missing the last subway.

18. ... and having to ride the Noctilien (Ed.: Night bus service for Paris and the suburbs.)

19. Rats and other disgusting creatures living inside the subway system.

20. Having to ride the RER train (Ed.: Faster, but more intimidating than the Métro, with mile-long corridors.)

21. Crossing the beltway and heading for the unknown... (Ed.: See my introductory comment about "true Parisians.")

22. Being pushed on the subway tracks by a lunatic.

23. Paris real estate prices! (Ed.: Photo of a 97 square-foot studio, with a $600 rent.)

What did you think? Did you like it? I bet New Yorkers could relate to some of these, don't you?

It is time to wrap up, but before I go, I just want to appeal to your better nature. You see, living in Paris involves a lot more than sitting at a café terrace and watching the world go by; nibbling Pierre Hermé macarons; getting Americanized chez McDo or at trendy food trucks. Living in Paris can be stressful. Danger lurks, whether real or imagined. There is no time to smile; or smell the Sanisette... uh... the roses. Living in Paris is serious business, and only true Parisians can put up with that much pressure. The rest of us... amateurs. We can only hope to watch and learn.

A bientôt.

MylittleParis.com

Bonjour,

Thank you for following French Girl in Seattle for almost 4 years.

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French Girl in Seattle

(Copyright: Uderzo)

I worry about France. I really do.

I browsed the web today, and learned a few fascinating facts.

There was some sad news , like the kidnapping and murder of two French journalists by Al-[$#%&@]-Quaida in Mali.

There was some depressing news: Brittany (Western France) was hit harshly by the recession, and the whole region is in uproar. French authorities are having a terrible time negotiating with angry protesters, nicknamed les Bonnets Rouges (the Red Hats, after local peasants who rebelled against the French crown in the 17th century.) Still, François Hollande, the unpopular French president, and Jean-Marc Ayraud, his Prime Minister, must realize how lucky they are they do not have to deal with other famous locals, pictured above. Any political or military leader in his right mind would avoid confronting these two (ask Julius Caesar!)

There was disturbing news... We already knew French eating habits have changed. I wrote about the recent French obsession with the Am-Ba-Ga (hamburger) here.

McDonald's is proud to call France its second most profitable market after the United States. McDonald's has been very, very smart, and that strategy has paid off.

Les Macarons chez McDo France: Where else?

This week, McDo announced customers will now be able to order food online at most restaurants. Fast food has become even faster! Bravo, McDo. You have just created the first "e-Burger!"

Meanwhile, Burger King, who deserted France in 1997, wants a slice of the fast food cake. The company returned last year, and opened a restaurant at the Marseilles airport. Business is booming, they say.

This fall, Burger King inaugurated another restaurant. The location choice remains puzzling to most. Why would you open a fast-food restaurant at a freeway rest area, 25 kilometers (15 miles) outside of Reims, in Eastern France? [Note to monolingual readers: kindly refrain from pronouncing "Reims." You won't make it!]

Reims, my friends, once played a pivotal role in French history. Many French kings were crowned in the city's magnificent cathedral...

Reims also sits in the heart of Champagne region. Wine tasting is a local sport: Veuve Cliquot, Taittinger, Pommery, Canard Duchêne and hundreds more Champagne houses are based there (we are talking the real stuff... not sparkling wines produced everywhere else in the world.)

Les Caves à Champagne (Champagne cellars)

You've got to give Burger King serious points for adapting to the local culture: Check out their creative new advertising campaign. Burger King arrives in the city of [French] Kings!

Get it?

Maybe I am reading too much into this...

Notice the warning: "To remain healthy, exercise on a regular basis."

The most amazing thing about this story? When the Huffington Post featured a story on Burger King this week, I read many comments by French readers praising the brand over its competitors, Mc Do, and the Belgian-owned Quick. These people sounded elated Burger King was returning to France!

It must be the fries. Who would resist those healthy fries? And the name is a lot easier to pronounce than Freedom fries!

Upon hearing the news (and the rumor claiming a third restaurant would open soon in downtown Paris at the St. Lazare train station,) some argued that once the Whopper became widely available again, French customers would tire of it.

Maybe.

But the hamburger is here to stay, and from what I hear, there are many appealing options. Last year, the New York Times ran a story about American-flavored food trucks, a revolutionary concept two years ago. Today, they are all the rage in the French capital. Hamburgers. Tacos. Cheesecake. Brownies. You name it. The Americanization of Paris is underway...

If I understand the concept right, people patiently wait in line for at least 45 minutes, or one hour, in the cold and rainy Paris weather, just to get their hands on one of these...

Fast food it is (well, once you hold it in your hands that is...) but fancy and trendy food too. Prices are high, as befits the French capital. Young French people (who have always loved everything American,) praise these innovative businesses by bestowing on them the greatest compliment: "C'est très Brooklyn!" (It's very Brooklyn...)

This makes sense: I have never met a French person who did not l.o.v.e. New York City!

At the risk of sounding close minded, I'd still pick French fast food offerings if I have to eat and walk in downtown Paris... After all, it's taken me years to perfect the art of eating a "galette complète" (ham, egg and cheese crêpe) while indulging in a session of lèche-vitrine (window-licking, or window shopping...)

When all else fails, there is always the reliable "jambon beurre" sandwich, ideal while on the go - if you must! - or for picnics at a local park.

Sorry, food trucks, but as long as there will be park benches in downtown Paris, or a local café to enjoy lunch on a cold and rainy day, I do not see the point of switching to this:

(Photography credit: Out and About in Paris)

This may be "très Brooklyn," but it certainly isn't "très Français..."

Eating while standing: How convivial!

Le Jambon-Beurre may be predictable and a little boring, but - unlike the onion-loaded Am-Ba-Ga or even worse, the dreadful onion rings - it won't give me the foul breath of a Notre-Dame gargoyle when I return to the office!

Take heart, my friends, there was also some heartwarming news.

I heard about a young American expat who has embarked on a challenging mission: Convincing the French to eat kale. Again, the New York Times, always prompt to point at France's misguided ways, wrote a storyabout the "Kale Crusader!"

Meet Kristen Beddard, the "Kale Crusader..."
"Pssst... Kristen, dear, you know you can buy actual flowers at Parisian food markets, right?"

Kale, c'est très Brooklyn, aussi, you know!

I smiled often as I read the readers' comments following the article.

On the French side, they ran from total indifference "Kale? Pfffff... [Insert Gallic shrug,] to angry retorts: "Are we to learn about healthy eating habits from the nation that invented McDonald's? Don't Americans know the French already eat balanced and healthy meals?!"

On the American (or Anglo-saxon) side: "The French, leading a healthy lifestyle? B.S.! [Insert American version of the Gallic shrug] They ALL smoke!!!" or: "French women are not skinny because they eat well. They are skinny because they starve themselves!" (now, now...)

Finally, the voice of reason. A Frenchman replied: "The French already know kale. They call it "Chou Frisé." They grow it here in my region, but it is used to feed rabbits. Call it cultural differences."

Le lapin et le chou frisé

Finally, some comforting news: French rabbits are the healthiest rabbits on the planet! And they are wiser than French teenagers.

French rabbits know that kale keeps you in great shape, and that kale chips are better than Burger King's Satisfries. Besides, the alternative is too scary to contemplate...

In closing, one last story I found this week. And an entertaining one at that.

In Bordeaux, a group of inebriated teenagers kidnapped a llama named Serge from a local circus (the kids live in BORDEAUX! Can you blame them?) They took the llama for a stroll around the beautiful city, and Serge even got to ride the fancy local tram before they were arrested!

It turns out the French needed some distraction from all the bad news: Serge and his new friends became instant hits in the social media. A Facebook page was created to support them, and over 800,000 people already follow it! Then the international media heard the story and shared it with the world. Serge got his own meme on the internet. The animal was finally returned to the circus (I am sure he will miss riding the tram for a while...) and a few days later, was reunited with his kidnappers. The circus owner dropped all charges. Tout est bien qui finit bien. All is well that ends well.

Serge and "Les Boys"

I can't think of a better way of ending this story. Bordeaux wine. Llamas. Kale-eating rabbits. Traveling Am-Ba-Gas. C'est très Brooklyn!

A bientôt.

Afterword:

Meet Serge Lama, the popular French singer Serge-the-Llama is named after. I heard Monsieur Lama (who happens to be a Bordeaux native,) fully supported the cause of the five kidnapping artists.

The smile. The voice. The long, lean, androgynous body. The elegant look. The smart, if mournful lyrics, both poetic and realistic, a sharp contrast to the catchy tunes, a blend of rap, hip hop, electronic music and Latin rhythms.

Meet Stromae the 28-year Belgian-born artist who is taking Europe (and French Canada) by storm.

Stromae - French slang for "Maestro" - has developed a cult following in most European countries. If the social media is any indicator of success, numbers are impressive: 2.6 million follow his Facebook page. His most popular video to date, Formidable, has received over 43 million hits on Youtube.

Two albums (Racine Carrée, Square Root, came out last spring.) Awards up the wazoo. His public appearances are greeted with much anticipation. He can discuss his origins, his career, and the issues confronting European youth articulately. He seems surprised, and humbled, by his success, but exudes self-confidence and controls all aspects of his career.

The guy has talent, and smarts. What's not to like?

French friends recommended I checked him out. I liked what I heard.

His first big hit was Alors on Danse, (Then you Dance,) a song he wrote about a friend going through a tough time. Some of Stromae's favorite themes are in the song: the rat race, divorce, loneliness, hopelessness. Yet, the pace is upbeat, and one can't help watching the short movie... Stromae sold three million copies of the first album.

Stromae, it turns out, is a trained musician, an accomplished percussionist, a fan of poetry. He studied cinema once, and it shows. He loves acting. All of his video clips play like mini-movies.

The Guardian nicknamed him: "The Morrissey of the Eurozone," because of his realistic and gloomy lyrics.

The young Belgian Dandy is also compared to one of his homeland's most shining star, the late Jacques Brel, and was recently featured in the New York Times in a flattering piece. Are the United States his next stop?

The fact that Stromae does not try to imitate other European artists by singing in English, might limit his appeal. Yet I noticed English subtitles in his most popular video, Formidable. Didn't I tell you the kid had smarts?

Formidable happens to be an amazing song, thanks to Stromae's acting skills and creativity. The chorus is a clever play on words:

"Tu es formidable, je suis fort minable..."

(You are wonderful, I am pathetic)

(For those of you who study the French language, fort is often used in Belgium and the Northern part of France to translate très - very. Un minable is a loser.)

The song tells the story of a painful breakup. The guy is drunk and mourns his failed relationship.

Even if Stromae is acting (he grins at the camera at the end of the clip,) the video was shot with a hidden camera in downtown Brussels on a rainy morning (there are a lot of rainy mornings in Brussels, Belgium...) Passers-by did not know they were being taped. At some point, three policemen approach Stromae (they recognize him,) and offer to give him a ride home. He declines, and they let him go.

Belgian cops are the most relaxed and understanding police force in the world!

The video clip went viral when leaked online, and the rest is history...

The young artist seems unstoppable. His new album tops European charts. My favorite song: Papa Outai ("Papa où t'es?" - Where are you, Daddy?) He draws on his personal experience to tell the story of a child with an absent father.

The son of a Belgian mother and a Rwandan father, who later died in the Rwanda genocide, Stromae only met his own dad a few times in his life. The video clip is creative; the tune catchy and no doubt rocking all dance floors in Europe! My favorite line:

"Tout le monde sait comment on fait des bébés;

Personne ne sait comment on fait des papas."

(Everyone knows how to make babies;

Nobody knows how fathers are made.)

Papa Outay (Stromae)

This week, to promote his ongoing French tour, Stromae made the headlines, and once again created a big buzz in the media, when he appeared at a popular talk show. Thanks to creative visual effects, he was able to introduce the audience to his "moitié" (his better half,) in a hilarious skit. They both sparred in front of the audience for a few minutes before he/she launched in an entertaining rendition of "Tous les Mêmes," (They are all the same.) Stromae's carefully cultivated androgynous look and acting skills came in handy. He brought the house down.

Stromae and his better half (amazing special effects!)

Click here to watch the live performance.
(Song starts at 1:37)

Stromae... or Stromae?

I would love to hear what you think about my new friend. I am adding his new CD to my Christmas list and can't wait to listen to the other songs on the album.

In the meantime, I know Stromae would approve the ending of this post: I will leave you with an iconic live performance by the great Belgian artist Jacques Brel, Amsterdam.

A bientôt.

Americans love shopping. They love deals.

And why wouldn't they?

Most stores are open 7 days a week, and for at least 10 or 12 hours a day. Special sale weekends are scheduled... every weekend. Deals, promotions, special events, beckon. Return and exchange policies are lenient. Credit rules.

My favorite time of year to observe natives in shopping mode: Black Friday, a.k.a. the day after Thanksgiving.

You may not realize this, but it is really worth your while to drive out of your house in the middle of the night and line up in the cold, waiting with hundreds of kindred spirits, for a superstore like Target or Walmart to open their doors. Besides, since you are still wearing your pj's and h.a.w.t. UGG boots, it will be a snap to return to bed afterwards, still clutching your Starbucks double tall eggnog latte, confident you snatched the best deals.

It's Black Fridayyyyyyyyyy!!!

Granted you might get trampled to death during the traditional Black Friday stampede, and if you survive, a Target or Walmart employee might not. Incidentally, I wonder if the guy the store management sends to unlock doors, gets a special bonus or not? It seems to me he should.

Yes, shopping in America is easy, and encouraged. As someone who has been actively - and satisfyingly - purging closets, an attic, and every corner of my house over the last few months, I shudder when I picture the amount of merde the average [gigantic] American house must contain.

But it is not just Americans. The French love shopping too.

Rue Ste. Catherine, Bordeaux, France
The winter sale has just started!

Unlike Americans, the French do not have guest bedrooms, or a three (or four) car garage, to store the overflow. They have to be more selective when they buy. Exchanges and returns can be challenging. Store opening hours are more limited than in the US.

And let's not forget the semi-annual sale is strictly enforced by the government. It is a concept that shopping-happy Americans have a hard time grasping. Say whaaaaat? French stores only go on sale twice a year? Well, they do, and they don't, but there is no doubt it is somewhat more difficult to shop in France than in the US.

Soldes! The magical word!
(lexpress.fr)

All this may help understand why my countrymen spend so much time looking... but not touching. Le Lèche-vitrine, (window shopping, or literally, window-licking,) is a national sport, and a concept young children get introduced to early on...

This weekend, as I was sorting through mail, my mailbox overflowing with catalogues and brochures touting special Christmas deals, I spotted a particular publication because of its bright red cover. As soon as I opened it, I knew I had a winner.

Now I know this is a reputable company. I know thousands of people will be ordering from that catalogue. But some of their products were too good to pass. I had to call Junior. Together, we flipped through the pages and had a good laugh. These were some of our favorites. I hope you enjoy them too...

Disclaimer:

If you like/own/are planning to order one of these products,

please don't be offended by my remarks.

To each his/her own.

Besides, I am French. What do I know?

Ready? Here we go...

French Girl in Seattle's 2013 Must-Have Holiday gift selection:

(Or: The gifts you never knew you never needed.)

1. The most unhealthy Holiday gifts e.v.e.r

The United States government is waging war on obesity, a national scourge. Even if Americans are admonished daily to "shake their derrière,"voilà several items that guarantee you will turn into the least fit person in America.

Do not walk or run around the yard. Ride your own miniature train with the kids instead!

The heated furniture cover: Will turn you into a couch potato for life
(and will keep the dog warm)

The remote-controlled beverage cooler:
If you don't go to your soda, your soda will come to you!

The rolling bedside iPad stand: Was the iPad too heavy?
Is this why Apple just launched the new iPad Air?

2. Gifts you absolutely do not need (nope, not even in your wildest dreams!)

The 15-foot inflatable Rudolph:
Scare the Christmas lights out of neighborhood kids in 30 seconds flat!

Canine Culinary Cupcakes:
Because everyone knows Fido needs his own cavity/tummy ache inducing treats for Christmas!

The hands-free hair rejuvenator (Don't ask!)

Her Majesty's umbrella:
Because, at least in America, EVERYONE wants to look like Queen Elizabeth II

3. Gifts you should never, ever, get for your husband/boyfriend/hubby.

Astronaut's slipper socks:
"Houston, we have a problem!"

The wireless speaker ear warmers:
"Allo? Allo? Bob, do you hear me? Can you pick up milk on the way home?
Allo? Allo? You have Bluetooth! I KNOW you can hear me!!!"

And last but not least, the undisputed champion...

Power nap head pillow:
E.T. meets Elephant Man meets... What the... ????

4. Gifts Junior and I would splurge on, if...

... we had $125,000 and $250 to spare, respectively.

The Porsche 917 Le Mans Raceway
(Note: This looks bigger than the first apartment I rented in downtown Paris.)

The Fashionista Christmas tree...

And so you have it. Aren't these just fah-bu-lous?

You should be thanking me, right about now, for inspiring so many original gift ideas.

And since we started this post on a very American note, I choose to end it on a très French note...

Happy Thanksgiving, les amis! Watch out for Black Friday stampede!

Thanksgiving has come and gone. Many Americans were fed well enough to build reserves that will last until Christmas (or at least until next week...)

Relatives and friends have left, leaving behind memories of animated conversations; improvised football games; fights over the the turkey neck or the last scoop of that ultimate delicacy, the sweet potato gratin with marshmallows... There was laughter; there were arguments, and narrowly avoided disasters.

Then came black Friday, (or is it Black Thursday?) Lines formed early outside retail stores. Arguments broke out, as unruly crowds pushed and shoved to get their hands on the elusive "deal. " One Walmart employee died, trampled by anonymous bargain hunters. Life - and the big Thanksgiving weekend show - went on.

Thanksgiving. You've got to love it.

As always, my family has been fortunate enough to receive several generous invitations to partake in the festivities. The 2013 vintage did not disappoint: The food was superb and plentiful; Junior and I made new friends. A grand time was had by all.

As I was capturing some of the evening's highlights, I tried to imagine how my French relatives would describe what happened that evening... in their own words, en français.

Don't panic. You speak French too. You don't believe me? Keep reading... and see how proficient you are. I bet you'll be surprised.

Thanksgiving (le Jour d'Action de Grâce,) par French Girl in Seattle.

D'abord, il y a un bar bien fourni (a well stocked bar,)

Les boissons

Ensuite, une belle table, festive...

C'est ma place!

Sur la table, il y a des objets colorés et décoratifs...

Des citrouilles...

Monsieur et Madame les Pèlerins

Mais la pièce de résistance, c'est la dinde...

La dinde est prête!

Le derrière de la dinde...

Pour préparer une dinde parfaite, il faut une excellente recette...

Très important!

La dinde est énorme, 22 livres (10 kilos.) Il faut la préparer. C'est une mission importante, pour le chef de famille...

Il découpe la dinde...

Quel morceau (piece) préférez-vous?

L'aile?

La cuisse?

Le blanc?

Avec la dinde, on prépare aussi...

La farce

La sauce aux airelles

La sauce, préparée avec le jus de la dinde

En garniture (on the side,) il y a une sélection de plats (dishes) délicieux...

les haricots verts

La purée de pommes de terre

Les invités sont très heureux...

Bon appétit, les enfants!

Une assiette ( a plate) bien garnie!

Bien sûr, il y a des desserts...

Au revoir, la tarte à la citrouille!

Au revoir, la tarte aux noix de pecan!

A la fin, on boit du café... mais je préfère un autre verre (glass) de rosé...

Quel festin!

Merci, Madame la Dinde...

Merci, les amis...

So, what did you think? Didn't I tell you, you could speak French, too?

Well done.

And look here. Can you believe it? Today is December 1, already. We will be celebrating again in just a few weeks...

Bonjour, Décembre.

A bientôt.

All photos by French Girl in Seattle

Do not use, reprint, or Pin without permission.

Gold. So much gold. And carp. Voracious carp, intent on sharing your picnic lunch as you sit by the Grand Canal.

These are my memories of Versailles, the magical place I visited as a child with my family and Parisian relatives.

As I recall, I was not that fascinated with the grandiose castle, the Hall of Mirrors, the King and Queen's apartments; but I adored roaming the grounds, playing hide-and-seek with my brother and cousins. After a while, we collapsed, ravenous, and enjoyed a picnic on the grass by the canal; tossing chips and breadcrumbs at the gigantic carp; laughing as the fish fought for scraps in the dark water, their menacing mouths gaping.

This summer, while in Paris, I decided to return to the Sun King's estate, the castle of all castles. Things have not changed at all. The lines are still among the longest in Europe during peak tourist season. They meander through the giant courtyard, past the golden gates, all the way into the main building, formidable, inescapable, a European rite of passage.

My friend Rick Steves stopped by with his crew a few days after my visit. Rick is a lucky man: He was allowed to tape his new show in an empty château...

The Hall of Mirrors: Make room for Rick and the boys!
(www.ricksteves.com)

But as many who visit Versailles during peak tourist season know, discovering the Sun King's prized possession can be a grueling experience.

Yikes!

Moi? I stayed away from the palace. I skipped the long lines in the courtyard; aimed for the side entrance, leading to the gardens; and emerged on the other side of the main building, on the terrace overlooking the majestic grounds. I did not stop to take photos, but headed for Marie-Antoinette's domain, at the back of the estate, a thirty-minute brisk walk, while many visitors stayed behind, congregating around the castle and the famous fountains.

And what a walk that was! Classical music was coming out of the elegant groves (part of Versailles' summer "Musical Garden" show,) and I could picture Louis XIV and his court, strolling the grounds and listening to Jean-Baptiste Lully, the King's favorite composer.

I was one of the first to enter the queen's private domain. I had not seen it since it re-opened in 2006, and I was immediately charmed by its many facets and bucolic appeal. The newly-renovated Petit Trianon. The French garden. The English garden. The temple of Love. And the masterpiece, the Hamlet, a small village - once a working farm - where the Queen played shepherdess. One could spend a whole day (or two,) discovering Marie-Antoinette secret refuge.

Le Hameau (The Hamlet)
Built 1783-1788, Richard Mique, architect

La maison du jardinier (the gardener's house)

Le Moulin (the windmill)

Le Petit Trianon

Le Pavillon Français (the French pavillon)
Built 1749-1750 - Ange-Jacques Gabriel, architect

It was hard to pull away, but after a couple of hours, I started walking back, taking a short detour to admire the pink marble splendor of le Grand Trianon. Then I found a spot in the shade where I enjoyed my picnic lunch, reminiscing... My brother and cousins were not there with me that day, but young Parisian children were having fun. "Imagine that," I smiled, "summer camp where kings and queens used to play!"

I still had to discover my favorite section of the expansive Versailles grounds. As I approached the castle, I almost bumped into the famous Orangerie. Did my family skip it, years ago? I did not remember it. How grateful I was when I peeked through the gates...

L'Orangerie. Jules-Hardouin Mansart's masterpiece. Imagine hundreds of fragrant orange blossoms; lemon trees; palm trees; elegantly displayed throughout the grounds and kept in giant containers, so they can be winterized in the Orangerie's main building.

All plants and topiaries are still pruned by hand, by a small crew of young gardeners who were hard at work when I stopped by...

Notice the cardboard shapes used to prune the trees...

The Orangerie building, like the rest of Versailles, is magnificent. The sheer size of the doors; the height of the ceilings; it's almost overwhelming. That's exactly how the Sun King wanted it.

While the plants are outside for the summer,
the building becomes an impressive exhibition hall.

"Yes," I decided, "Versailles still has a lot to offer, and like Montmartre, the Eiffel Tower, or a Seine river cruise at sunset, it would be a shame to miss it."

Versailles attracts over six million visitors a year. With a bit of planning (tickets can be purchased online,) you can skip the big crowds and find your happy place, as I did, at the Sun King's estate. The city of Versailles is lovely. Try and spend time there if you can, after you visit the castle.

Almost three hundred years after the Sun King's death, Versailles keeps us dreaming.

It inspires movie directors, old and new...

Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette (2006)

The estate is the ideal showcase for French luxury goods...

Charlize does Versailles for Dior

Chanel's 2012 Cruise Collection
(Karl Lagerfeld fits right in and does not even need to wear a wig!)

... or for iconic French artists...

Gorgeous Vanessa Paradis
(Photographed by Karl Lagerfeld)

Vanessa Paradis, for her one-night acoustic concert at Versailles' Royal Opera house,
"One Night in Versailles," 2010

And even if sections of the castle can be rented for private parties, (imagine hosting 600 of your very best friends for a birthday bash inside the Orangerie or the Galerie des Batailles,) I sincerely hope that bling-bling* couple Kanye West and Kim Kardashian choose another venue for their upcoming wedding...

Nice necklace, Kanye. The Sun King would approve!

Apparently, the French public agrees. Here are some comments I found online when the rumor emerged that K. W. and K. K. had their eyes on Versailles...

- "N'importe quoi!"

(Nonsense!)

- "Et le couronnement, c'est pour quand?"

(When is the coronation scheduled?)

- "Sur Mars, c'est plus classe, et avec un peu de chance, ils ne reviendront pas!"

(Send them to Mars. It's classier, and with a bit of luck, they won't come back!)

A bientôt.

All photos (unless otherwise noted,) by French Girl in Seattle

Do not use, re-print or Pin without permission.

* Bling-bling. Tacky. Gaudy. Lover of expensive things. Was famously used to refer to former French president Nicolas Sarkozy.

Additional materials:

Dior's commercial with Charlize Theron.

Can you spot Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, or Marlene Dietrich? :-)

Today, I visited a favorite Seattle neighborhood, Madison Valley. The French flavor is so strong there, that locals - and the media - have nicknamed it: "Seattle's Little Paris."

You may remember the story I wrote about it. I introduced you to some of my favorite places. Some are now gone. Madison Valley, like most places, keeps evolving.

My friend Kelly and I made fun plans this weekend, but she woke up with a bad cold, and we had to cancel our little outing.

I needed a back-up plan. Should I stay at home and spend more time reviewing for next week's exams? Should I go out in the damp and grey weather for a long walk with the Yellow Dog? Should I go up in the attic and finally drag down the big storage boxes to decorate the house for the Holidays?

Non. Fugget-about-it. "I deserve a fun break," I thought, "not to mention I need new material for this week's blog post."

Off I went. Across the bridge. Away from suburbia. Back to the city. Ahhhh... Holiday lights. Boutiques. Coffee shops. Actual sidewalks, with actual people strolling... In short: Civilization!

Of all the French restaurants I love in Seattle (and I am lucky to report the city has a few good ones,) Luc, owned by Chef Thierry Rautureau, holds a special place in my heart. This is the restaurant where I once met for dinner with my French students, and that fun evening inspired the very firststoryI wrote on this blog, three years ago.

The French Studio group, circa December 2010
A great bunch!

Luc is a popular bistro, but I hoped I could find a table between brunch and dinner service. When I pushed the door after 3:00pm, the place was almost empty. An uncommon sight.

I even got to choose my table, and sat by the window, so I could watch people in the street. Just like in France!

All good meals start with a pretty, sparkling drink!

The brunch menu was original, and impressive. There were traditional egg-based dishes, with a twist. There were heartier plats (entrees) one would expect to find on a dinner menu; Boeuf Bourguignon; trout amandine; andtraditional bistro fare, like les moules-frites; and grilled beef onglet steak.

Yet, for a French Girl of Pied-Noir ancestry, the homemade merguez sausage proved too hard to resist. It was served with a fried egg, potato-spinach gratin, roasted squash, and some greens. Délicieux ! (The merguez had just enough of a kick to make it stand out.)

Portions were copious, but the young waiter was so friendly I could not resist ordering a chocolate pot de crème for dessert. It was a feast, and in the middle of the day.

Pourquoi pas ? On ne vit qu'une fois. You only live once.

Notice the whipped cream and chocolate sablé cookie...
A decadent dessert, but served French style (i.e. a small portion)

I enjoyed my meal, under young Chef Rautureau's watchful eyes (the painting was on the wall above my table.)

Thierry Rautureau is known as "the Chef in the Hat," and if you look closely, you can spot said-hat not only on the Chef's head these days, but also on the restaurant sign, and in the painting... That hat (and its owner) have been well-known on the Seattle food scene for many years.

The best part of the afternoon came after the meal. I strolled in the small neighborhood and stopped at a few favorite boutiques to get in the Holiday mood...

Lavender Heart is a must-see. They specialize in fragrant gifts, like soaps and candles, but you never know what you will discover there. It is the perfect place to find a hostess gift. Best part of the visit: a chat with the friendly owner (Yesterday, we discussed our favorite dishes chez Luc, located on the same street block.)

A festive atmosphere

Ha!

Two of these Elves' and Pixies' soap bars,
made in Belgium, came home with me!

Another mandatory stop in Madison Valley is my friend Nohra's Inès Pâtisserie. I introduced her and her spectacular confections here.

I had not seen Nohra in a long time. She remains as enthusiastic, direct and independent-minded as always. J'aime bien Nohra. I like her. She tells it like it is. Some customers might be surprised, but her business is thriving. She will be opening a new branch of Inès Pâtisserie in popular Capitol Hill next year.

When I arrived, Nohra was on her way out, and the display windows almost empty, but there is always time to catch up with "a sister." She sent me home with a delicious almond croissant for Sunday's breakfast, and a scrumptious-looking tarte aux pommes (apple tart) because, she declared: "You've had a rough year, and it is time to have fun again!"

Petit-déjeuner à la française. Merci, Nohra!

There was time for one last stop, and I had to choose carefully. I have not had a chance to really get in the Holiday spirit this year. The fall has been too busy.

"I want to smell real Christmas trees," I decided. And I knew just the place.

It smelled so good at City People's I almost expected Frosty the snowman to show up and grab Nohra's pastries out of my hand! Cars were lined up on the small parking lot waiting for the staff to wrap up their Christmas trees and load them up. A seasonal scene if there ever was one.

It's not a great shot of the store sign, but I want you to know I almost got run over by a S.U.V. to take it. Had this happened in Paris, I would have certainly died, but the Seattle driver did not even honk at me.

This "paparazette" is dedicated, you see!

As anticipated, "cute" and "Christmassy" awaited inside City People's garden store. Illustration.

Who does not like owls...

... or little mice...

... or a handmade miniature fox with a backpack?

... or a wise (and elegant) angel?

As I said, cute and Christmassy.

The following journal was neither, but I was très, très tempted, especially when I noticed each page featured Ryan Gosling's face and an enticing message: "Hey girl, tell me all about your day..."

But I do not need a Prince Charming for now. I think I am going to have fun being on my own for a while (sorry, Ryan.)

So off I went, back to suburbia, my favorite car smelling like my old Parisian neighborhood, thanks to Nohra's fragrant pastries.

There would be time later for a long, long, long walk with the Yellow Dog (because all indulgences come with a price...) There would be time for home decorating, and for more studying.

For now, as I drove across the bridge, I was happy to hum along with Frank Sinatra (courtesy of Junior, a big fan of the Rat Pack...)

I'll be home for Christmas

I am dreaming tonight of a place I love
Even more than I usually do
And although I know it's a long road back
I promise you

I'll be home for Christmas
You can count on me
Please have snow and mistletoe
And presents on the tree

Christmas Eve will find me
Where the love light gleams
I'll be home for Christmas
If only in my dreams

Christmas Eve will find me
Where the love light gleams
I'll be home for Christmas
If only in my dreams

If only in my dreams

A bientôt.

All photos by French Girl in Seattle

Do not use, reprint or Pin without permission.

-- French Girl in Seattle

Cher Blog. Dear Blog.

Three years have gone by since that first story, inspired by a fun evening with my French students.

Le temps passe. Time flies.

3 years. 176 posts. Over 535,000 pageviews. Close to 1,000 Followers (my most faithful readers,) here, or on the blog's Facebook page. Many comments - and just as many replies from this French Girl.

International friendships, developing over time, and more to come, I hope.

Merci, le Blog.

In 2013, I neglected you on occasion. Life caught up with me, and I did not always have the time to research, and write the stories that have become your trademark. But like a true friend, you understood. You stayed by my side, always ready to offer a break; a few hours of escapism, and peace.

For when I am with you, I forget all that is unpleasant. And I keep coming back for more, every so often, enjoying every minute of the writing process; looking for the perfect photo to illustrate my story. Then I hit the "Publish" button, and in the morning, I discover my readers' comments, with the same enthusiasm I felt three years ago, when we embarked on this adventure. My readers: I am grateful to each and every one of them, and thankful for their support.

Oui, Joyeux Anniversaire, le Blog !

While visitors' comments provide qualitative feedback, a closer look at Blogger's statistics section confirms what stories have been the most popular; what posts have inspired the most reactions.

Follow me, my readers, as we revisit stories you may have missed, or forgotten...

Le blog's all time five most popular stories (in pageviews):

1. Zaz, a rising star in French music(March 27, 2012)

If you do not know Mademoiselle Zaz, it is time to look her up. Great voice. Catchy tunes. An electric personality. She made the headlines again this year with a new album and a sold-out tour.

2. La ballerine Repetto. The Repetto ballet flat (May 3, 2012)

This may very well be the world's most popular shoe. One of many stories I wrote for the "French Icon series."

3. Searching for the Perfect Salade Niçoise(August 8, 2011)

A story inspired by a solo trip a favorite French city, Nice. I have since written several travelogues about Nissa la Bella.

4. The incredible French waiters(February 26, 2011)

An oldie, and a goodie. A humorous look at the often-misunderstood French waiter... and valuable travel tips.

5. La Marinière. The French sailor shirt (October 30, 2011)

Audrey Hepburn liked it. So did Brigitte Bardot, Marion Cotillard, and the rest of us, when spring returns. Another popular story in the "French Icon series."

Le Blog's 2013 most popular posts (in pageviews)

If you have been following this blog for a while, you know I love movies. Cinema is my oldest friend. In 2013, more than ever, my favorite movie characters came to the rescue and provided entertainment, strength, and inspiration. In the spring, I was honored to review several new French movies for the Seattle International Film Festival. But my most popular stories were inspired by movie Classics...

1. Scarlett O'Hara, they don't make them quite like you, anymore (February 27, 2013)

Scarlett. Need I say more?

2. Revisiting Classics: Sleepless in Seattle (October 3, 2013)

I moved to this area 19 years ago. It was good to be reminded about the film that started my (and everyone else's) infatuation with Seattle, so long ago.

3. What if Jay Gatsby had lived in Paris? (May 12, 2013)

A new version of the Great Gatsby was released this year, and I loved it! But this post was just an excuse to poke fun at Parisians.

In 2013, my readers also gave the thumbs up to stories about the French way of life. Trying to steer clear of stereotypes, I pointed out trends in French culture that may be surprising to some...

4. Don't speak French? Speak Franglais(March 20, 2013)

Find out why you do not really need to speak French when visiting my homeland...

5. Mieux vaut en rire. Laughter is the best medicine (November 6, 2013)

It's all about the Am-Ba-Ga (and kale!) in Paris, these days!

So many new readers found French Girl in Seattle on Facebook this year! They say teenagers have moved on to other social media. Maybe so. The French Girl in Seattle community on Facebook keeps growing, and growing. We started 2013 with fewer than 200 Followers. Today, we have over 640... Build it, and they will come...

I can't post on the blog every day (mostly because I research my stories and need time to write,) but it is much easier to keep in touch with friends on Facebook. This year, I have enjoyed sharing news, trivia, and photos about la Belle France and the French with all the community members.

French Girl in Seattle's Facebook page.

Most popular photos:

1. "Le Tout Va Bien"brasserie, Rueil Malmaison, France (posted on September 7, 2013.)

Over 6,000 people saw that photo, *shared* generously by the French Girl in Seattle community. Apparently, everyone enjoys the idea of a restaurant named: "All is well."

(Photo by French Girl in Seattle)

2. Alcohol... (posted in July 2013.)

This photo, captured on a walk in Notting Hill last July, reached 2,500 Facebook members. Hmmm... I wonder why...

(Photo by French Girl in Seattle)

3. "Je porte bonheur" (I am your good luck charm.)

My readers - many are francophiles - are always interested in learning more about French traditions and holidays. On May 1, I reminded them that my countrymen offer un brin de muguet (Lily of the Valley) to their loved ones to bring them good luck. This post reached over 2,000 Facebook users.

(Author unknown.)

4. Le 14 Juillet (Bastille Day.)

This photo, taken in Nice, France in July 2012, was a big hit with the French Girl in Seattle community last summer. It reached over 1,800 Facebook users.

(Photo by French Girl in Seattle)

5. Food, food, and more [French] food...

Chez French Girl in Seattle, we *love* French food. The next best thing to eating it? Looking at it, of course! Over 1,200 Facebook members saw that photo posted during my European travels last summer.

(photo by French Girl in Seattle)

It is the Holiday season, and everyone is busy, busy, busy. I hope you are enjoying the time spent with relatives, and friends.

Yes, the little blog that could has come a long way, and it will continue to entertain you - and me - in 2014. Je croise les doigts. Fingers crossed.

Please join me in wishing Le Blog a resounding: "Joyeux Anniversaire !"

To you, mes amis, I wish "Happy Holidays and a Happy New Year!"

Stay tuned in 2014...

A bientôt.

Pike Place Market, December 2013
Le jour... (Day....)

... la nuit (and night...)
(both photos by French Girl in Seattle)

All photos unless otherwise noted by French Girl in Seattle

Do not use, reprint, or Pin without Permission.

(Photo credit: thisoldheartblog.wordpress.com)

Bonjour 2014 ! Bonne année, les amis !

Another year of blogging starts this month...

Junior and I were alone during the second half of the Holidays.

He had to work on a school project for National History Day.

But we took quality breaks to enjoy the cold, sunny weather.

This weekend, we drove to my favorite local town, Edmonds, WA.

I have written about itbefore, remember?

Edmonds is my Happy Place. I return often, and this friendly locale always cheers me up.

This time, the budding photographer and I took a long walk on the bluff,

overlooking the Puget Sound.

It was a perfect day; the weather sunny and crisp (ok, cold!)

That's the WA. Ferry terminal and the mighty Puget Sound

you see in the distance...

As you get close to the water, there's a peaceful street.

It is lined with pretty bungalows, some quite old.

There are sidewalks, where locals walk their dogs.

There are benches, where one can rest;

take in the splendid Northwest views; dream or meditate...

Their name was Lamoureux, and they were in love until the end: Perfect!

Everywhere you look, especially on such a glorious day, endless vistas...

The Olympic Mountains; the Puget Sound;

the Olympic Peninsula and Whidbey Island in the distance...

Young photographer, shooting away (with a film camera, always!)

Let's head down to the beach...

Even on such a cold day, we spot a group of divers;

exploring the renowned Edmonds Underwater Park, a marine preserve and sanctuary...

They are crazy, bless their souls. The Puget Sound must be frigid this time of year!

It is hard to picture the magnificent Edmonds shoreline

lined with fourteen saw mills, spewing dark smoke into the sky.

But that's the way things were in the late 1800's.

Today, mills have been replaced by promeneurs (walkers;) dogs;

and the occasional seagull...

It is really too cold. Let's head back into town...

What should we do first? Lunch chez Chanterelle, a local favorite?

A visit to an art gallery or a boutique?

Choices abound. Strolling is always an option.

Everyone walks in Edmonds. This ain't suburbia, you know!

Mural...

Yes, people stroll in Edmonds.

It's *almost* like in Europe.

And talking about Europe, a visit to Edmonds is not complete without...

... a stop at my friend Rick Steves' Travel Center.

Junior had never been. He was impressed.

It was quiet chez Rick on Saturday.

Was there a Seahawks game? I have no idea...

(best time to do fun stuff in Seattle is during Seahawks games,

when everyone else is glued to their TV sets...)

At the Travel Center, the atmosphere was relaxed, yet studious...

European travel is serious business, folks!

The Rick Steves library: Almost as cozy as your family room!

We left quietly, trying not too disturb the few "RickNiks" present...

A bientôt, Rick. See you soon, Edmonds.

A bientôt, les amis.

So different, yet so alike
http://parisvsnyc.blogspot.com

Paris. New York. Two of the world's most visited, most exciting cities.

Paris. New York. Everyone has an opinion about them, even if they have never been.

Parisians. New Yorkers. Everyone has an opinion about them, even if they have never met them.

This week, I saw a funny little video online, "Johnny T's New York City Tourist Tips."

As a longtime fan of the City that Never Sleeps, I smiled often while watching it. Then I realized that many of Johnny T's travel tips could also apply to Paris, (and to other big cities around the world.) After reading the comments left by readers on nextstopmagazine.com where the video was released last December, I was sure of it.

I can explain, but first, let's watch the 4-minute clip together, shall we? Meet Johnny T, New Yorker. This hilarious puppet will teach you how to be the perfect New York City tourist...

See what I mean? Johnny T, it is obvious, loves his city. And he claims he loves tourists too, hence the travel tips, so everyone gets along. Video (and article) highlights:

1. Johnny T. is a frog, dressed in a red track suit.

Johnny T.'s Parisian cousin would be a green frog named Jean, and he would wear an Agnès B. grey suit, accessorized with a Pierre Cardin man bag.

2. Johnny T. is passionate about pizza.

He knows all the best pizza joints in New York city, past and present.

Jean knows the best boulangeries in Paris. He would not consider buying his daily baguette and croissants anywhere else.

New York vs. Paris (Vahram Muratyan)

3. Are New Yorkers rude to tourists?

Johnny T. does not think so. He claims they are nice and helpful to out of town visitors.

In the Comment section, a reader, Bocheball adds that New Yorkers get a bad rap, and that visitors are to blame:

"Tourists ask for directions but rarely say thank you."

Johnny T's French cousin, Jean, would concur. How many tourists approach Parisians, in the street, or in shops, without bothering to say the magical words first, "Bonjour" and later, "Merci." It is so bad sometimes, that some café owners have posted this price list outside, in an attempt to educate their customers.

"Price list. Being polite pays off"
(old enamel sign spotted on Ebay.com)

4. Johnny T. is a nice frog, but you can see there is an air of arrogance about him. After all, he lives in the best city in the world. He does not even consider the rest of the country might not agree with him.

In the Comment section, an argument breaks out between New Yorkers and Floridians, as they try to determine who the slowest drivers are. Later, another heated exchange happens between New Yorkers and Texans about New Yorkers exhibiting poor manners when they meet people.

Jean, the French frog, could relate. When Jean leaves the Seine river or his favorite pond in the Tuileries Gardens and heads to Southern France for his hard-earned 3-week summer vacation, he gets criticized - a lot - by other French frogs he meets outside the capital. "Parisians are the worst drivers!""Poor Parisians, so stressed out!""Look, that guy had to place his beach towel right next to ours when the beach is almost empty. 'Used to crowds. Must be a Parisian!"

Summertime: Parisians head South!

5. Johnny T's favorite mantra: "When in New York city, move fast or get out of the way!"

New Yorkers live life in the fast lane. They walk with a purpose. You are a tourist, and you have time. They don't. In fact, Johnny T. adds: "Stay in your hotel between the hours of 4:00 to 6:00pm." -- This way, locals can handle the commute home undisturbed.

In the Comment section, Lars E. agrees:

"Don't stop to look around at the top of the subway stairs.

There are 100 people coming up behind you."

Jean, the French frog, would add that nothing is worse than being cramped in the Paris Metro by gigantic tourist backpacks (still on their owners' backs,) or by travelers who ignore the cardinal rule: Do not block the doors when they open, or you will be pushed out on the platform without mercy, even if this isn't your stop.

Parisians trying to get home at rush hour

Tourists and flip-flops do le Metro

6. Johnny T. advises tourists to check out areas outside Manhattan. Forget the classics. Expand your horizons. There are so many different facets to a great city like New York!

But in the Comment section, Bocheball adds:

"I'd rather tourists stay penned in Times Square where most of you idiots go and residents avoid like the plague. The smart tourists, the few there are, are mostly European, go to the cool places, and generally act far cooler!"

Uh... Thank you for European tourists... I guess.

Jean the Parisian frog would concur. He, too, would love for tourists to venture out of downtown Paris. After all, this is a compact city, and only 2 million people live in the center. Still, Paris welcomes over 15 million visitors a year! Allez, tourists, step away from la Tour Eiffel, le Louvre, Notre Dame, or les Champs-Elysées...

The Parisian Times Square?
Crowds on the Champs-Elysées
(Nouvelobs.com)

7. I like to end a story on a happy note.

In the Comment section, Sam the Cat writes:

"Despite the stereotypes, we are actually very fond of tourists

and are proud to show off our city."

Jean the Parisian frog would agree. Parisians may seem rushed, and aloof, but if you get lost and ask for directions politely (don't forget to say "Bonjour" first,) you will be surprised to see how much time they take to get you back on the right track. They love their city, and want you to love it too.

It's not unusual either to see two Parisians, in full display of Gallic pride, arguing about the best way to help a stranded tourist, which is always very entertaining...

"Where is the Eiffel Tower?"
"Behind you, ma chère !"

So whether you visit New York or Paris, keep in mind Johnny T. and his French cousin Jean la Grenouille will be happy to help, should you get in trouble. And if you have the irrepressible urge to drag one of those heavy backpacks around, remember: "Move it, or lose it!," - oh, and stay in your hotel room from 4:00pm to 6:00pm!

Bonne visite ! A bientôt !

Special thanks to talented illustrator Vahram Muratyan who knows, and loves, Paris and New York. Do get his wonderful Paris vs. New York book if you haven't already.

Emma Thompson, Golden Globes 2014
The "Louboutin-Martini" speech

The Hollywood award season is underway, and it will culminate on Sunday March 2, with the 86th Academy Awards. For us movie fans, it is a fun time of year.

Some of us get excited about favorite movies; actors and actresses. Others tune in, so they can gawk at designer-clad celebrities, walking down the Red Carpet.

We watch - and occasionally cringe - as TV hosts greet famous guests, pouring out of black limousines.

During the show (it never seems to end on time,) we all yawn at overdrawn speeches; the endless list of "Thank you's;" or the disingenuous declarations: "I did not expect this. I did not prepare a speech…" (You have been nominated. Isn't it part of your job to prepare a speech?)

We watch the prestigious audience laugh nervously at the host's jokes. Some good; some awkward; some plain mean.

We endure commercial breaks. And long musical numbers.

We reminisce about Old Hollywood glamour. Grace, and Audrey. Rita. Katharine. Liz. Never mind that we are too young to actually remember the good old days. The well-oiled Hollywood machine has conditioned us for years. These glamorous stars are part of our lives; almost part of the family.

Grace and Audrey, presenters at the 1956 Academy Awards...

But the good old days are gone. Welcome to the time of hyperactive social media and unbridled paparazzi power! Glamour has faded, replaced by gossip; unflattering photos of celebrities on their coffee runs (Can you picture Grace Kelly toting around her tall, non-fat latte in a Starbucks paper cup?) -- There are so many celebrities (famous for being famous,) and so few artists, it seems. So be it. Times change.

Still, as a long-time movie fan, I am grateful for movie stars, and the stories they tell. I see talent, and on rare occasions, I see grace. I still dream; laugh and cry with them.

This week, as I browsed online, I spotted a few shots of my favorite actors and actresses. And they made me smile. I hope you enjoy them, as much as I did.

Long live le cinéma. Long live Hollywood. This French Girl, for one, will keep watching.

Les complices. Accomplices. Meryl Streep. Julia Roberts. And you thought your family was dysfunctional. If you have not seen them (and the rest of the stellar cast) in August: Osage County, you are missing something. Good friends or consummate professionals promoting a movie? Does it matter?

The Blues Brothers had nothing on these two sisters!

And talking about friends…

Meryl Streep and Emma Thompson

Emma is one talented lady, (Saving Mr Banks, anyone?) and from what I hear, a fun broad. A good mom too.

Emma and "Mini-Me" daughter Gaia

All right. I admit it. Most of my favorite ladies are over 40. or 50. Et alors? So what?

Sandra, so happy to see you laugh.
Please don't do anything to your beautiful face!

Of course, I do not forget les Boys. How could I ever forget les Boys?

Look at these two handsome fellows. Real men take their moms to Award shows.

I like them just fine too when their moms are not around…

Ben, Ben, Ben… Bradley, Bradley, Bradley...

You clean up nice, Colin F.

Yes, thank you, movie stars. You can walk around holding a Starbucks paper cup; or look sweaty when you leave the gym; wear no make up as you get their groceries. We like to think you are just like us, professionals; friends; lovers; mothers and fathers…

Cate Blanchett and her two leading men
Critics Choice Awards, January 2014

… but the truth is, you are not . You have that little extra something; the ability to inspire and captivate; the power to make us dream. And that is a good thing.

A bientôt.

I used to think as I looked out on the Hollywood night, 'There must be thousands of girls sitting alone like me dreaming of being a movie star.' But I am not going to worry about them. I'm dreaming the hardest.

-- Marilyn Monroe

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Joyeux Anniversaire, le Blog !

2014 begins in my Happy Place...

New Yorkers and Parisians: So different, yet so alike...

Hollywood… You make me smile!